How To Keep My GreenHouse Warm

“Great balls of fire in the morning” Youve often heard that expression. But this morning it was literally true at our house. Maybe you can learn from our experience and avoid what might have been serious. The motor on the hot water circulating pump for the cool section of the greenhouse was put in close to the ground under one of the benches. Dirt was scooped out, a board put under it to keep it out of the dirt, and a piece of plywood put over the top to keep out any drip.

But this morning the motor shot out flashes of fire, then shuddered and died. I thought surely the motor had burned out. Upon examination, however, I found that dirt had filled in under the motor, it was all wet around there, and the lead-in wires had shorted out, blowing a fuse fortunately.

So cleaning out under the motor and retaping the connecting wires was all that was needed. But you may rest assured that this will have a periodic checking. This was one of those just below freezing early spring or late winter mornings, so it wasnt bad. But I shuddered to think what it might have been.

It seems that for several months now I have been so busy spouting off about various things that I have failed to report on the feathered company weve had all winter. In late summer we seldom saw anything of the blue jays and the cardinals. But with the first cool days, they showed up looking for their handouts.

The bird feeder was back in the wind-break shrubbery border. This has now grown into a thick mass that really does give the birds protection from the icy blasts. But the bird feeder was practically covered up, so we did move it out in the clearing. It is easier to get to now, and the wind can turn it to keep the open side away from the wind. The feeder is mounted on a metal post to keep out squirrels and cats.

Speaking of cats. After the excitement of the motor, I got my laptop out and sat down with a coffee in front of the window overlooking the back yard. Suddenly I became conscious of something out of the corner of my eye and looked out.

There was a HUGE black Angora cat with long, long hair at the edge of the pool. He was magnificent and had limpid amber eyes. I had never seen him around here before, but he was beautiful, and moved gracefully, slowly and very dignified.

He came up and lapped at the thin scum of ice to get a drink. Then as he walked along the edge of the pool, he spied a gold fish just under the surface. I almost thought I could hear him say to himself, “Ah! a tasty, after breakfast snack.” He cautiously stepped out on the ice with one foot, the other raised to land his meal. Of course he broke through. He backed out, settled on his haunches and vigorously shook first one foot, then the other.

Frankly, I laughed uproariously. But Mr. Black Kat resumed his dignified stroll on his way across the yard. He seemed to shrug and mutter to himself, Oh well, it was all full of bones, anyway?

After years of discussion we finally decided to make another rose bed. There are just too many new roses on the “must” list. We prepared this in late fall, but there still is time to make one. You can dig up almost any place and plant roses, but I like to give them special treatment.

The area decided upon was four feet wide by 28 feet long, and ran at right angles, making an ell to the present bed. First the sod was tilled to break it up. Next the soil on one half was spaded 18 inches deep, sand thrown on top of the other half. Then in the bottom of this trench bone meal, leaves, peat moss and sand were mixed with the soil.

Some wide boards were laid along the edge to hold the overflow. The other half of the bed was prepared the same way. The added material left us with a raised bed. It would have been nice to line the outer edge of the bed in some way. We decided to use a decorative landscape brick.

I am happy that roses cant read. Some place I once read that it was a waste of time and material to use steamed bone meal. All I know is that whenever we have used it, roses and other plants have always seemed to do exceptionally well. It is true, bone meal is not high in nitrogen one to three per cent.

Steamed bone meal is of organic origin, and its real value lies in the fact that its 23 to 25 per cent phosphorous becomes available slowly, and over a long period of time. Dont expect quick action. Just like expecting a healthy landscape color it takes up to a year for it to become available in any appreciable quantity. But it sort of takes over when the landsape plant has exhausted the normal phosphorous in the soil.

For long, happy plant life use 5 pounds of steamed bone meal to 100 square feet, and get it mixed up well, deep down in the soil, where the roots will be searching for it in a year or so.

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A Greenhouse Takes Lots of Planning

If you’re thinking about putting up a greenhouse, there are a number of things you’ll need to plan out ahead of time. Greenhouses come in a huge range of sizes, styles, and prices. You might decide to build a greenhouse yourself, or simply assemble a pre-fabricated kit. Regardless, you’ll have to think about some essential factors before you get started. Down the road, you will have saved a considerable amount of time.

First of all, put some thought into where you’re going to locate your greenhouse. You might be lucky enough to have just the perfect flat parcel of land where you can build it. Or you might have to create a level patch of ground for it. As well, you need to take a good look at the trees on your property. Your greenhouse should be positioned where there aren’t any trees that will block out the sunlight.

Other important factors are things like the amount of sun you get each day, and your climate in general. If you live further north, you’ll get plenty of sunlight in the summer months. You’ll get much less in the wintertime, however. If so, you’ll have to install a system for heating and lighting in your greenhouse. This, of course, is an extra expense and more work for you.

As well, take into account the heat and moisture levels in your region. If your climate tends to be dry, an irrigation system will be necessary. If you get a lot of rain in your area, proper drainage becomes a concern. Water and mud may have a tendency to pile up around the door and outside walls.

You also need to consider the wind. Strong gusts coming through the window or door could be very detrimental to your plants. You’ll want the windows and doors to be sheltered from strong winds.

You also need to think about what kind of foundation you’ll use. You can use a number of different materials, such as gravel, wood or cement. Some choose to lay tile or carpet over the floor. However, before you decide, think about the cleaning requirements for the material you’re considering and decide if it’s appropriate for you.

You can enjoy the benefits of a greenhouse on your property without having to be a professional contractor in order to set it up. But as you make your plans, you should attempt to think like one. This could be hard for you if you’re more into gardening than constructing. In the end, however, you’ll have a better greenhouse gardening experience if you plan carefully before you build.

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Plants That Should Be Keep In Your Greenhouse

Home Greenhouse in January

This month the daylight is theoretically on the increase, but it is surely slow. Stormy weather obscures the sun so that the actual total of light is still low. However, snow and January thaws produce some beautiful days under the greenhouse roof. The standard roof slope of one in two is such that it sheds freely.

The quiet blanketed feeling of a sunny morning with 6 or 12 inches of snow on the roof is likely to be interrupted by a “whoosh” as the snow unloads in a junior avalanche. Afterwards the bright sunshine and reflected light from the outside snow make a fine spring-like world indoors, and a beautiful sight altogether.

The dumped load of snow from a sizable roof should be considered in planting close to the foundation outside. Brittle shrubs should not be used here unless they are carefully protected.

In full bloom now or beginning to bud are most of the late-sown annual seeds. Many of these are cool loving plants, which do well in a 50-degree greenhouse. Among these are alyssum, lobelia, calendula, wax begonia, impatiens, pansy and the greenhouse strains of snapdragon, stock, didiscus and carnation. From sowings the previous spring, flowers will be appearing on cyclamen, streptocarpus and Primula.

For putting on a great display, one can always rely upon orchids and camellias. An orchid collection which includes cattleya hybrids, epidendrum, cypripedium and phalaenopsis will provide interest over a long period.

The blazing poinsettia, now past its prime as a livingroom showpiece, should be brought back to the greenhouse and stored under the bench until spring.

Bulbous plants contributing to the fireworks include many natives of South Africa. These are usually brought into the greenhouse in late fall from the shaded coldframe where they have spent the summer. Very worthwhile are veltheimia, ornithogaulm, freesia and lachenalia. Try to find space for bougainvillea, amaryllis, and the favorite scarlet Kalanchoe hybrids.

If your Christmas cactus has not flowered, long light days or high temperature may be to blame. You must remember that it is a jungle cactus and unlike the desert types, must be potted in a porous, rich mixture. The oft recommended withholding of water after October 1 is useless; cool temperatures and short days bring bloom.

However, this is a variable species and different specimens flower from October to April. At least three distinct sets of characters are seen in different plants. For bloom always keep in mind light, temperature and humidity.

Outdoor and home weeds can be kept out of the greenhouse by exercising reasonable care. Sterilization of potting soil is perhaps the easiest or buying in clean sterilized soil in bags, but hand weeding will eventually succeed. An occasional crabgrass tuft or the tiny daisy-like Galinsoga parviflora, brought from Europe a century ago, will appear in spite of your care. The most tenacious is a pretty little trailing oxalis with purplish foliage and yellow flower.

This forms tiny shaped seed pods before you know it and shoots its seed far and wide.

Cultivated plant pests include some of the tender Kalanchoes. They drop their plantlets into everything. Another migrant is the decorative artillery plant - Pilea microphylla. This shoots its seeds everywhere and grows luxuriantly. even in orchid pots. So also do two ferns, the pteris and the giant polypodium aureum. A weed specialty in my greenhouse is a plant described as a choice exotic, Chamaeranthemum Gaudichandi.

From a couple of small, dark-green, handsomely barred leaves it sends up a slender 4-inch scape which bears plenty if seed. This seed germinates in orchid pots, fern fibre and other unlikely places.

An expert of my acquaintance tolerates no weeds except the line lacy selaginella and a delicate leaved calceolaria. This latter has tiny lemon-yellow flowers. Seed is scattered throughout his greenhouse, to his annoyance and to the delight of visitors. Know a gardener by his weeds. One mans weed is anothers specimen plant. What is your pet weed?

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Get the Right Food for Your Hydroponic Plants

If you want to grow the best plants possible in your hydroponic garden, you need to start with the right nutrients. Nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium are three of the most important hydroponic nutrients. However, there are lots more. Magnesium, iron, calcium and several others are also essential for the healthy growth of hydroponic plants.

During normal growth, your plants go through a predictable cycle. Hydroponic nutrients work to help your plants develop faster and better in each stage of their growth. This requires the use of different hydroponic nutrients at different stages if you wish to maximize your crop.

Some people like to make their own hydroponic nutrients. For hydroponic gardeners with a lot of experience, this can work well. But if you’re a beginner at hydroponics, you should consider using a special nutrients kit.

You can find pre-made solutions that will give your plants the nutrients they need in the right quantities. A lot of testing and research has gone into the development of these commercially available nutrients. They’re designed to cater to your plants’ growth needs.

It’s critical to administer the correct amount when you’re hydroponic gardening. At various times throughout their growth cycle, plants will require differing quantities of nutrients. The nutrients contained in the solution that you give to your plants must have the right balance.

Plants that are grown hydroponically are more susceptible to varying nutrient levels. Feeding your plants nutrients in amounts over those that are recommended can be deadly. Your plants might die off, or simply not grow to their full potential. They’re not capable of self regulating like plants in soil-based gardens can. Since the roots are immersed in water, they are unable to get rid of the excess nutrients.

It’s important to keep a close eye on the pH level of the water when you’re using nutrient solutions. It should be kept as near to neutral as possible. While the nutrients are being taken up by the plant, the water becomes more alkaline. You can neutralize it by adding a bit of sulfuric acid. If the water is too acidic, use sodium hydroxide to restore it to a neutral pH. A pH testing kit is essential in order to correctly monitor the levels.

Water and temperature conditions are important factors, as well. When feeding nutrient solutions to your plants, make sure it’s at room temperature. The water should be maintained at room temperature as well. This will help the plants to absorb the nutrients properly.

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